In Defense of Sustainable Fashion
There are those who dispute the ability of the fashion industry to run sustainably. (See comments on my last column!) “Isn’t fashion about keeping up with the trends, constantly buying and discarding?” Sometimes it seems that way, especially in a mass consumer culture such as ours. But let us not get caught on the racks at the fast fashion boutiques nor hypnotized by mainstream media; there is a future for fashion. It’s just that some of us may need to change our definition of the word.
Clothing for me has always been about self-expression. Fashion, therefore, is how I express myself in a way that pleases the eye of another. Trends may come and go but true style lasts, and so do well made pieces (when they are treated with the care they deserve). If you don’t like my definition lets look to a credible source… Webster’s Dictionary perhaps?
fash•ion
Pronunciation: \ˈfa-shən\
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle English facioun, fasoun shape, manner, from Anglo-French façun, fauschoun, from Latin faction-, factio act of making, faction, from facere to make — more at do
Date: 14th century1 a : the make or form of something b archaic : kind, sort
2 a : a distinctive or peculiar and often habitual manner or wayb : mode of action or operation
3 a : a prevailing custom, usage, or style b (1) : the prevailing style (as in dress) during a particular time (2) : a garment in such a stylec : social standing or prominence especially as signalized by dress or conduct
(Source: merriam-webster.com)
It seems the word has deep roots beyond the history of department store shopping. So then, lets break fashion (and responsibility) down into three parts: 1, the formation (designers); 2, logistics (distributors/manufacturers) and 3, societal norms (consumers). In this post I’ll write exclusively about the first category.
Part 1: The Designers
If independent, the designer is the person in charge of production. He or she picks fabric, decides on function, dictates quality, and chooses who distributes. When done on a small scale there is very little waste involved in this step of the process, simply because we really can’t afford it (see: starving artist). Since we’re talking about the future let’s highlight some up-and-comings as seen in Mass Exodus – a Ryerson graduation sendoff and a sneak peek at those who will soon be setting the standards in fashion and beyond.

During the opening speech the production team boasted an “eco-friendly set” with recycled steel and wood from sustainably farmed forests.
Jade Sullivan-Vallentyne is the woman behind the cheeky menswear label A2B. Designed for the twenty-something traveling man her garments are made from materials such as organic cotton, bamboo, fabric ends, and former tents. Hers are a prime example of unique conversation pieces that could spice up a wardrobe without falling victim to passing trends.

When thinking about designs to last a lifetime we can’t forget about Bridal. Enter Lilly Nichols – Eco Bridal.
Each piece is hand crafted by Kim Barr using natural fabrics such as organic hemp/silk blends, peace silks, and gauzes. In place of lace (which can have negative associations when it comes to lace makers and labor rights), Kim has laser cut her own design by hand, leaving a personal touch reminiscent of apples, orchards, and trellises. In her words, “Nature inspired lace that isn’t super girlie but feminine and modern.”

So there’s just a small taste of the many talented designers taking responsibility into their own hands. Stay tuned for what’s looking to be a 3-part spotlight on those working towards sustainable style.
** Both A2B and Lilly Nichols will be on display (among others) this summer in the windows of Holt Renfrew’s Bloor street location (50 Bloor Street West).




[...] Last i wrote we were discussing the fashion industries ability to operate sustainably. On the journey from designer to consumer there are many people, organizations, and resources involved. One major hurdle is the fact that traditionally the industry has been less than transparent; keeping manufacturing behind closed doors and much to be answered in terms of distribution and environmental impact. There are however many networks and organizations focused on increasing the transparency, connecting people, and sharing resources to make it easier for all. Here’s a few in Toronto, Canada, and beyond: [...]