Posts Tagged ‘Fashion Footprint’

We’ve discussed sustainable fabric choices, proved earth conscious designers aren’t all hippies, and touched upon the issue of logistics and the organizations helping with the shift. Today lets look to those with the real power: the people. Creating change can seem like a daunting task and indeed it is, when left in the hands of a few. However, when each individual takes a short turn at the crank the wheel starts to spin and as more lend a hand the wagon gets moving and the band begins to play (see: bandwagon, jump on!). There are two aspects of this movement that are solely dependent on consumer behavior: (a) How and where money is spent; and (b) How the goods are consumed.

It’s about redefining ‘value’ in a culture where quantity often means more than quality and a sale rack bargain is celebrated over a unique designer piece. You want a governing body on certifications, more designers to use sustainable fibers, and fast fashion boutiques to stop creating sweatshop trash? Then get out there and vote with your dollar! Whether through purchasing organic and/or locally made garments or refusing to purchase clothing that is of poor quality or produced unethically, each penny spent (or withheld) makes a statement. More often than not you’ll find that summer dress you paid $150 for will fit you better, stay in your wardrobe longer, and incite many more compliments than those ten dresses you bought at the mall last summer for $15 each. Not convinced this one purchase can make a difference? Ask any independent artist and they’ll tell you each garment sold (or not) can mean the difference between the creation of next year’s line or a full-time serving job at their local pub.

A recent article in Eye Weekly discusses the pluses of slow fashion while questioning one’s ability to self-express and be creative with so few options. Only have twenty bucks to your name and need a new outfit for your date next weekend? How ’bout a thrift store hunt? Ryerson Fashion alumni Kaitlin Simonsen (and friend…can I call her a friend? she dates my friend) has a Toronto directory for vintage shopping plus tonnes of ideas on how to revamp the old on her site My Vintage Secret.

The missing piece of the puzzle is how we treat our new found treasures. Think cold water wash and hang to dry, clothing swaps rather than trash piles, and Salvation Army donations that will actually last the new owner more than a season or two. Remember also that there are ethical ways to recycle your clothes, as Ashley mentioned in a post some months ago.

Some may lament that this type of wardrobe doesn’t lend itself to fun and spontaneous trips to the mall or the whimsy of complete closet overhauls every time the mood catches. Good point and good riddance. Try it and you may find the mood catching less often. Your pocket book will thank you, though the credit card company may not! Shopping this way creates a closet full of conscious choices; give it a year or two and every outfit will have significant meaning attached to it beyond the price tag.

Logistics

Last i wrote we were discussing the fashion industries ability to operate sustainably.  On the journey from designer to consumer there are many people, organizations, and resources involved. One major hurdle is the fact that traditionally the industry has been less than transparent; keeping manufacturing behind closed doors and much to be answered in terms of distribution and environmental impact. There are however many networks and organizations focused on increasing the transparency, connecting people, and sharing resources to make it easier for all. Here’s a few in Toronto, Canada, and beyond:

Fashion Takes Action is a members based organization in Toronto that provides workshops and resources to help industry members take steps in a ‘greener direction’.

Design AWEAR was started by a group of Ryerson Fashion students in an attempt to share resources among students as well as link the school with designers and others in the industry who share a passion for environmentally conscious design practices.

Future Fashion is an initiative from Earthpledge.org dedicated to helping the fashion industry make the transition towards sustainable materials. They have a great directory of certifications from around the world.

Ethical Fashion Forum is a social networking site linking designers, manufacturers, consumers and more. The majority of the membership is in the EU but they host events, awards, and job postings from around the world.

The Center for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion has an online blog with tonnes of information to connect people, share resources, and educate.

These are just a few of many websites and organizations popping up around the globe. When i look at what the search engine brings up today vs. what was around just a few years ago its obvious that the shift to a greener fashion industry is more than just a trend, it’s a movement of the people.

Eco-Fashion is a term that brings thoughts of hemp suits and hippie garb to many. Some might call it an oxy-moron. As far as I can tell it’s the future. Welcome to Fashion Footprint: a column for the socially conscious fashionista. I’ve been asked to contribute this regular post with the goal of lessening the carbon footprint that our love for fashion leaves behind. Gone are the days of the burlap cliché, I’m talking chic and innovative design. Don’t believe me? Check out the first collection by V!TOR as seen at TheKEY.to{Shift} in Berlin last month. Want something Canadian? How about Thieves by Sonja den Elzen. Those are just two of many designers who are paving the way for what’s to come. So lets start with the basics: FABRIC.

Organic Cotton – Cotton that is grown without pesticides and fertilizers that contain synthetic chemicals. (This is a big deal since conventional cotton uses more chemicals than any other crop on earth!) It is generally grown from non-genetically modified plants. There are, however, other problems with Organic Cotton such as depletion of nutrients in the soil and water usage – both to grow and crop and to clean the harvested cotton.

Bamboo – As a resource bamboo is amazing. It uses less water than cotton, grows fast, doesn’t need insecticide or fertilizer and doesn’t require replanting year after year. It also gives nutrients back to the soil & produces a huge amount of oxygen. However, with the exception of Bamboo-Linen most bamboo fabrics (Bamboo-Viscose, Bamboo-Rayon) do require harsh chemicals in one step of the process from plant to textile. At this point some experts believe the negatives of bamboo-viscose are on par with those of organic cotton. Bamboo-linen is said to be super absorbent, anti-bacterial, and compostable.

Click here for a good article that explains different bamboo fabrics and compares them to cotton.

Recycled Polyester (PET) – made from recycled pop bottles, this fabric performs just as well as polyester made from new materials (see: petroleum by-product). I’ve been noticing this stuff popping up everywhere especially in high performance gear by companies such as MEC and Patagonia.

So there you have it – Eco-fabrics for dummies. These are just three of the most common textiles advertised as ‘environmentally friendly’. Don’t forget, there’s always the option of reworking something old into a new design à la Preloved and Shopgirls’ own Susan Harris.